Sweet

Starred review from July 3, 2017
The latest from Ottolenghi (after Nopi), written with pastry chef and longtime collaborator Goh, displays the signature dishes that have earned the London restaurateur legions of fans and a monthly column in the New York Times: doughnuts filled with saffron custard and dusted with cardamom sugar; dark-chocolate brownies streaked with tahini and halva, which incorporate Middle Eastern ingredients used in new ways; and clever lemon layer cake with vertical stripes of blackcurrant puree and buttercream and a trio of cylindrical cakes baked in cans. In the preface, the authors brush off concerns about sugar and note that though gluten-free and nut-free recipes are marked for convenience, there was no purposeful attempt to include them. Many recipes include multiple parts, but thorough instructions and alternatives for the unusual pans sometimes called for make them accessible. The volume closes with thoughtful tips and notes on ingredients. A catch-all chapter includes such different delights as a barley pudding and a frozen parfait in the form of an oversize ice cream sandwich. Modern, creative, appealing, and, most importantly, fun—this is Ottolenghi at the top of his game.